Staying in luxurious private houses in Havana

Havana is changing so fast it has become difficult to keep up with the latest bars and restaurants, which keep springing up throughout the city. Until recently private accommodation (known as casa particulares) had somewhat languished behind and the traditional image of renting a room in someone’s house appealed mostly to backpackers and those who looked for a more authentic Cuban experience where they would suffer basic food and a lack of privacy in exchange for long afternoons learning Spanish speaking to their host family.
No longer, the private rental market has not so much gone up market but developed an up-market segment, which compete with the best that the hotel segment has to offer. We feature below two of the very best.

Artedel Luxury Penthouse
Avenida Primera 26, between 15 and 17, Vedado, +53 7 830 8727, +53 5 295 5700
www.cubaguesthouse.com

Stylish, modern, stunning. Ydalgo’s Artedel luxury penthouse could be a yuppie abode anywhere in the world except you would miss out on the beautiful 360-degree view over Havana. This is a is a super-shiny 1950s style home scattered with contemporary furniture, Murano glass pieces, bronze lamps, and vibrant art work. The bedrooms are spacious and decorated in a modern minimalist style.

Ydalgo is an impeccable host, discreet or gregarious, as you prefer. Once you rent three rooms you get the place to yourself, including a beautiful living room, outdoor terrace with tasteful glass table and chairs and even a small pool. This is VIP service come standard with airport pick-ups, salsa lessons, drivers, translators, laundry and massage all on tap. Forget using a Cuban coffee maker and rev up the Nespresso machine.

Villa Portería
Calle 4 No 310 between Calles 13 and 15, Vedado;
+53 7 833 8670.

CUC$40 per room per night.
Villa Portería is not only a fine casa particular but also a repository of antiques, for Hernandez is also a dealer – a bonus if you’re interested in ceramics, glassware, sculpture and paintings. During the so-called Special Period (1991-4), as a young man he realized that it wasn’t a question of selling the family silver to stay afloat but of buying other people’s silver, ceramics, sculptures etc. Over the years this has become as much of a passion as a business with his collection of Cuban pharmacy jars taking pride of place. I was enchanted by a lovely (1940´s) Italian ceramic dish, decorated with delicate orange and green leafs which at CUC 40 seemed a bargain.

The house itself is the only modern creation on a colonial Vedado street. There are several rooms for hire, which are grouped around a pretty courtyard garden. The house is light and spacious with tasteful decoration and paintings. This resonates with a calm feeling, a place to sit and have coffee out of the heat of the day – there are plenty of little areas to read and while away the time while Hernandez regales you with tales of his latest find.


  • Las Yagrumas (HOTEL ISLAZUL)

    Las Yagrumas (HOTEL ISLAZUL)  LH 2

    Location: Just 22 kilometers from Havana, in the middle of rich forest vegetation, the traveler finds Las Yagrumas, a hotel protected by the waters of the Ariguanabo River

    Deauville

    Deauville  LH 2+

    The Deauville Hotel isn’t smart or luxurious and leaves quite a lot to be desired on the aesthetic front, but it has one of the best views in Havana and its own kitschy charm. It overlooks the wide sw …

    Hotel Telégrafo

    Hotel Telégrafo  LH 2+

    Initially located on Amistad Street and relocated in 1899 to its present site, the Telégrafo Hotel was rebuilt in 1911 and was considered then one of the most modern hotels in Havana. In 2001 it was r …

    Lincoln

    Lincoln  LH 2

    This peeling nine-story giant was the second-tallest building in Habana when it was built in 1926. Overshadowed by taller opposition these days, the hotel still offers 135 air-con rooms with TVs in an …

    San Miguel

    San Miguel  LH 2+

    The San Miguel is named after Antonio San Miguel y Segalá, an important member of Havana society who acquired it in 1913. Its interiors combine grandeur with intimacy, sometimes to slightly eccentric …

    Caribbean Hotel

    Caribbean Hotel  LH 2

    The Caribbean Hotel is possibly Havana’s best-located budget hotel. It is located halfway down the Paseo del Prado the border between Centro Habana and La Habana Vieja, and also very close to Parque C …

    Lido

    Lido  LH 2+

    The Lido Hotel is in Central Havana, near the Prado and La Habana Vieja, and could hardly be more centrally located. It is not in one of the poshest Cuban streets. In fact many of the nearby buildings …

    Copacabana

    Copacabana  LH 2+

    The five-story Hotel Copacabana is a 168-room hotel complex right on the coast, and although there’s no beach, a seawall creates a large protected sea-pool which is a real attraction for dedicated swi …

    Plaza

    Plaza  LH 2+

    Originally occupied by the Diario de la Marina newspaper, this two-story building was sold in 1902 to the Marquis of Pinar del Río, who contracted the services of Purdy and Henderson for the construct …

    Saint John’s

    Saint John’s  LH 2+

    Located at the foot of La Rampa, a bustling hub of Cuban life, the St John’s is a prominent fixture. In the context of (relatively few) budget hotels in Havana it offers a decent option.  Clean, if a …

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